December Wine Club – All About the Bubbly

Click above for December’s playlist.

Well friends, the day has come. We can finally offer Franciacorta to our special members. I. Am. Crying.

If you have ever been to one of my sparkling wine tastings, then you know my absolute love for Franciacorta. I love its flavor and freshness, its price, and the memories it evokes for me.

Franciacorta is Italy’s sparkling wine, par excellence. Like its more-famous neighbor, Champagne, Franciacorta has rules that govern origin, varietal, quality, and style. The DOCG (denominazione di origine controllata e garantita) classification – Italy’s highest - was reached in 1995, which applies strict standards to its production. In fact, many of its regulations exceed those of Champagne, though its production is 1/10 that of its French counterpart

The wine region is situated in the middle of Lombardy. There are 5 DOCG spread across this Lakes region, and Franciacorta sits near the center, bordering Lake Iseo. Pinot Nero, Chardonnay, and Pinot Bianco (50% max- and now up to 10% Erbamat) from vineyards within this region are the only grapes allowed. Production follows the méthode champenoise, with long months of bottle aging sur lees. Those requirements range from 18 months on lees for the spumante level, to at least 60 months for riserva classification. By contrast, Champagne aging requirements span 15-36 months – though many houses surpass these minimum standards.

Despite the high standards required for Franciacorta that meet or surpass those for Champagne, prices for the former rarely reach the astronomical levels of the latter. A really excellent Franciacorta can be bought for $40-$50, and $30 still garners a high-quality bottle. And, for me, Franciacorta aways outclasses its Champagne complement. I cannot get enough of its elegant, long-lasting bubbles, and typical, beautiful notes of citrus, pear, almond, and toast.

Wine is not just about taste; it is also about place, associations, memory. I drank Franciacorta in Albenga at the wedding of my closest friend (see pic). I drank it at another wedding in Montalcino. I had it at my own wedding in Philadelphia. I’ve also drunk Franciacorta to celebrate the end of a dig season in Orbetello, my birthday in Fiumicino, New Year’s Eve wherever I may be. I certainly have it on every anniversary. I drink it in celebration, sometimes in commemoration, and sometimes in condolence. For me, Franciacorta is a necessary part of life’s most meaningful moments. That is another reason that this wine club offering is so special. Not only do we get to offer you Franciacorta, but Contadi Castaldi is the first one I ever tasted. I was on the way to Aleppo via Milan, and my husband (Evan) and I went beforehand to Lake Garda. We celebrated my departure at lunch, with a bottle of Contadi Castaldi.

Contadi Castaldi Franciacorta Brut NV

●  80% Chardonnay, 10% Pinot Nero, 10% Pinot Bianco

●  Initial aging in steel and barrique, with 20-26 months on lees

●  Fresh and lively, with layers of citrus, honeysuckle, and laurel.

Yes, there *is* a second wine. While I am beyond excited about the Franciacorta, I musn’t overlook the Cava!

Cava is to Spain as Franciacorta is to Italy: its highest quality sparkling-wine made in the méthode champenoise. Cava has DO (Denominación de Origen), which – excluding the estate-based Vino de Pago – is the penultimate classification for Spanish wine. Requirements are thus a bit looser. Its historical home lies in Catalonia, particularly the Penedés region between Barcelona and Tarragona. Macabeo, Xarel.lo, and Parellada are the three main grapes used, though a few others are allowed – including Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. The wine must be aged on lees, with requirements ranging from 9 months for the “Cava” designation, 15 months for “Reserva Cava”, to 30 months for “Gran Reserva Cava”.

As does Franciacorta, Cava has excellent value. Prime, vintage bottlings can be quite expensive. But, $30 can buy a very good bottle, particularly of an NV (non-vintage) wine.

This bottle is also special to me. It is our house label – Sojourner. The image on the label is, of course, the beautiful mural painted on the garden wall, courtesy of Carlos (Calo) Rosa and the Mural Arts Program. I have long admired Mural Arts and the amazing murals that decorate our neighborhoods. I had no idea we would be so lucky as to have Calo Rosa be our artist. Calo is from San Salvador, and the vivid, vibrant, ‘‘Antes de la Lluvia’’ that he painted in our garden (and that graces the Cava label) is permeated by his stated Latin American “urban-tropical” and street art influences. Not only that, Calo is a wonderful person; I feel rewarded to have worked with him and to have met him and his family.

Sojourner Cava, Penedés

●  Macabeo, Xarel.lo, and Parellada

●  12 months on lees

●  Crisp and bubbly, notes of toasted nuts, light brioche, pear, lime zest.

Carlos Lopez Rosa

Born in San Salvador, lives and works in Philadelphia.
From a family of artists with diverse media including graphic design, Brazilian percussion, oil painting, and cake-making. He holds a degree in Fine and Visual Arts from the Centro Nacional de Artes (CENAR) and a degree in graphic design from Don Bosco University.